La antigua fortaleza moscovita y antigua residencia de los zares hasta principios del siglo XX albergó más que edificios gubernamentales, iglesias y museos. Durante la época de los zares, no se dedicaba mucho espacio directamente a la corte real. La mayor parte del Kremlin estaba ocupada por calles concurridas con espacios privados de destacados nobles de altos rangos, patios de artesanos, clérigos y paisaje urbano.
Bajo los bolcheviques esta situación no cambió hasta mediados de la década de 1960. El Kremlin también fue la residencia oficial. Lenin fue uno de los primeros en establecerse allí después de la Revolución, seguido por los funcionarios soviéticos y sus familias. Todos los que ya vivían allí y no tenían conexión con la nomenclatura soviética que fueron desalojados. “En el Kremlin, como en todo Moscú, hubo una lucha continua por los pisos, que escaseaban”, escribió el revolucionario Lev Trotsky, al final más de 2000 personas se trasladaron detrás del muro.
El final de los pisos del Kremlin llegó con Nikita Khrushchev, cuando en 1955 prohibió vivir en la fortaleza. Los últimos vecinos se quedaron hasta 1961, y desde entonces no ha habido más pisos residenciales allí. Pero, ¿significa esto que nadie vive en el Kremlin?
Regimiento presidencial
En el territorio del Kremlin, en un edificio histórico del Arsenal, se encuentran los cuarteles de los soldados del Regimiento Presidencial, una unidad militar única que garantiza la seguridad de las primeras personas del Estado y la preservación de los objetos de valor del Kremlin. Estos soldados montan guardia de honor en la Tumba del Soldado Desconocido y el Mausoleo de Lenin, y participan en todas las ceremonias. Son la tarjeta de presentación del Kremlin, por lo que siempre se ven perfectos (incluso la confección de los zapatos de la Guardia de Honor requiere siete revisiones cada día).
Viven y entrenan dentro de los muros del Kremlin. Se levantan a las 6 de la mañana, luego hay entrenamiento y ejercicios. “Hacemos ejercicios, corremos unos dos kilómetros. Entrenamos en el territorio del Kremlin, hay un lugar especial para ello”, dijo el soldado Nikolai Tarov. Luego están las horas de entrenamiento y preparación militar. El tiempo libre es después de las 6 pm. El día del soldado termina con una caminata nocturna, pero incluso durante esta todos deben marchar en formación. Las luces se apagan a las 22:00.
Un soldado del Regimiento Presidencial puede ir a servir en el muro del Kremlin no antes de los cuatro meses de servicio, y es necesario tener buenas calificaciones. Los teléfonos móviles están permitidos, pero no hay internet ni posibilidad de tomar fotografías. Está permitido fumar y existe un lugar especial para ello, queda terminantemente prohibido el consumo de alcohol.
El número de unidad es un secreto militar. El regimiento presidencial se considera tradicionalmente como un cuadro de todos los servicios y unidades del Servicio de Guardia Federal (FSO): custodian, entre otros, al presidente y altos funcionarios.
Fil y una docena de halcones
Pero hay otros guardias que sirven y viven en el Kremlin. Son el búho Fil y una docena de halcones. Estas aves voraces, especialmente entrenadas, protegen el patrimonio cultural de la misma manera, pero de otra plaga: los cuervos, que han vivido en la colina Borovitski desde la antigüedad.
Han estado luchando contra los cuervos en el Kremlin durante mucho tiempo. Al principio no le gustó por la creencia de que, si «la mafia» rodea el Kremlin, se puede esperar guerra o hambruna. Posteriormente, la lucha contra ellos se explica por razones más prácticas: los cuervos se sienten atraídos por el revestimiento de pan de oro de las cúpulas de las catedrales y lo arrancan.
Se probaron diferentes métodos. Con Lenin, intentaron fusilarlos con fusiles, pero esto impidió la labor del líder revolucionario. Luego cambiaron a un método menos sangriento: ráfagas de sonidos agresivos. Sin embargo, no hubo mejorías. Luego, en 1973, el Kremlin abrió un servicio ornitológico y consiguió halcones. Los halcones demostraron no ser la mejor opción. Fueron reemplazados primero por halcones y luego por búhos. “Los búhos son los enemigos naturales de los cuervos. Los búhos están en todo momento volando lentamente sobre una bandada de cuervos y agarrando todo lo que pueden alcanzar”, dicen los FSO.
Los pájaros del Kremlin viven en el Jardín Secreto. Su tarea principal no es destruir a los cuervos, sino ahuyentarlos. Y funciona: según los empleados del Kremlin, los cuervos comenzaron a volar alrededor del Kremlin.
PD: El Presidente no vive aquí
A pesar de que el Kremlin es la residencia oficial del presidente de la Federación Rusa, Vladimir Putin no vive allí. Aquí, en el edificio histórico de los departamentos del Senado de Moscú, construido por orden de Catalina la Grande, se encuentran sus oficinas de trabajo y representativas (de gala).
Putin vive en la residencia Novo-Ogarevo, una casa solariega del siglo XIX en la región de Moscú, desde la que trabaja a veces, entre otros lugares.
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